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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Montrose is dazzling. Whereas so many 2018s are opulent and broad, Montrose is a wine of vertical explosive power. Ripe Cabernet aromatics soar out of the glass, making a strong first impression. Black cherry, leather, licorice, graphite and menthol develop later as the 2018 starts to open in the glass. The energy, vibrancy…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Montrose delivers on the promise that it showed from barrel. I gave this a three-hour decant before broaching, since Montrose is always backward, albeit far less ferociously than even just a decade ago. It offers copious blackberry and blueberry scents on the nose, plus pressed violets and a light estuarine scent that becomes…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2000 Ducru-Beaucaillou is very deep in colour. Surprisingly, the nose is very backward in this example with quite intense black cherries, boysenberry, prune and fig aromas, gaining clarity and vigour with aeration (serious decanting is advised for this millennial.) The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Stocky, but not muscular, this has a firm…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red, less saturated than the 2002. Very pure aromas of cassis, minerals and mocha, with a hint of raw berries. Juicy, pure and tightly wound, with intense flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate, espresso and licorice. Broadens impressively on the long, aromatic, suave finish, showing lovely grip and class. Finer than Borie’s 2000 Grand…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium, bright red. Restrained aromas of medicinal cherry, leather and licorice. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly coarse flavors of dark raspberry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a slight greenness.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2015 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet with maraschino cherry, crushed strawberry and light rose petal scents, showing more fruit concentration than some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, pretty crisp and saline. It just lacks a bit of persistence on the finish, but otherwise, this is fine,…