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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 de Fieuzal is heavy, overripe and not especially interesting. Sure, there is plenty of richness in the jammy dark fruit, chocolate and sweet oak flavors, but less in the way of complexity. This is an especially racy, flamboyant style, and yet the grainy tannins are penalizing. I had hoped for more.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château de Fieuzal left me scratching my head when I tasted it from out of barrel. Now in bottle, I am afraid the nose still has a jarring metallic veneer that inserts itself between the taster and whatever fruit lies beyond. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, slightly green and maybe displaying…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 d'Issan is a potent, backward wine that is going to need a number of years to come into its own. Dark and brooding, with serious intensity, the 2018 shows off real depth in its blue/purplish fruit, chocolate, spice, smoke and leather flavors. The tannins are imposing today, but, then again, everything about the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château d’Issan offers fragrant blackberry, cedar and light peppermint scents on a nose that gently unfolds with aeration. This is charming and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and fine intensity. A dusting of dark chocolate appears toward the finish, which needs some time to fully cohere; cellar it for…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Blason d'Issan is a pretty rich, heady wine, just as it was in barrel. Dark-toned fruit, chocolate, leather and spice all flesh out in this juicy, flavorful second wine from Issan. Drink it over the next handful of years.

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino takes some time to blow off its youthfully reductive state, as sugar-dusted black cherries and savory herbs emerge from an air of white pepper and crushed stone. This is remarkably juicy and lifted in character, matched by a vibrant wave of red berries that coasts along the palate with ease,…