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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

I tasted the 1985 Lynch-Bages on two occasions. Firstly, at the property, I am perplexed by its loose-knit nose and disjointed palate. I put a question mark against my score because a dozen-plus encounters over the years were far superior. A second bottle at a private dinner in London reinstates my adoration for this forerunner…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(5.4 g/l total acidity; 13.1% alcohol): Deep ruby-red with a hint of amber at the rim. Aromas of blackcurrant, coffee, green bell pepper and leathery dried herbs. Rich, round and peppery in the mouth, with similar flavors to the aromas and a long, clean finish. Not the last word in complexity but solidly made, with…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Great nose combines plum syrup, leather, truffle, spices and a faint herbaceous element. Juicy and very intensely flavored; not particularly complex but offers compelling inner-mouth perfume all the same. Finishes very long and bright, with lovely penetration and horizontal tannins. This wine had the misfortune of following the Lafite and Latour flights in…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…