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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Les Forts de Latour has a very classy bouquet with finely tuned, almost understated black fruit laced with tobacco and cedar at first, then it blossoms with aeration and reveals quite stupendous precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. This is extremely balanced and precise with more depth and persistent than…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Medium red-ruby. Warm, inviting aromas of smoky red fruits, tobacco and black pepper. Bright and gripping on entry, then juicy and brisk in the middle, with slightly medicinal red fruit, mineral and tobacco flavors and somewhat clenched tannins. A restrained Chateauneuf that’s currently hiding its flesh. But has a classic structure for aging.

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Full red. Aromas of candied red fruits, gunflint, minerals and pepper. Then subtly sweet in the mouth, with intriguing garrigue notes, moderate stuffing and harmonious acidity. Still a bit youthfully clenched, and a tad dry on the back end, but there’s also enticing sweetness and length.

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Good deep ruby-red. Spicy aromas of black cherry and bitter chocolate; the 40% mourvedre component gives this wine unusual freshness for a ’97. Silky but bright on the palate, with leather and game nuances adding complexity to the black fruit flavors. Brisk finish hints at tree bark and leather.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Black- and redcurrants and smoke on the nose; less oak-spicy today than the ’96. Silky and harmonious but currently rather withdrawn. Not quite as sweet as the ’96. Here the substantial toothcoating tannins come across as somewhat tougher, but there enough sheer extract for balance. Interestingly, this backward, rather powerful wine suggests the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Plum and roasted nuts on the nose. Large-scaled, vinous and deep; thick fruit is given clarity by sound acidity. Very long and subtle on the finish, with serious but harmonious tannins. An outstanding second label, as good as most classified growths from St. Julien.