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Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany… (Jul 1998)

Medium ruby-garnet, not violet or purple. Evident new-oak vanilla, along with cherry, cassis, ripe plum and cedar aromas. Medium-full body. Has weight, good fruit and decent extract, but less than I expected from a fine vintage like 1995. Moderately concentrated berry, cassis and minerally flavors are suffused by toasty oak, which tends to add a…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Good medium reed. Ripe aromas of red fruits, tobacco, chocolate, smoke, leather and truffle. Densely packed, structured and backward, with complex, youthful flavors of cassis, lavender, minerals and game. Still unfolding. Finishes with superb persistence and tannic grip. A great year for quality and quantity, notes Duroux.

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, cola, root beer and coconut. Thick, dense and concentrated, with exotic, slightly candied dark fruit, caramel, toasted coconut and mineral flavors nicely shaped by firm acids. Shows strong fruit and a major dose of oak on the powerful, backward finish. This can’t quite match the 1998 for sheer depth…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Very good deep ruby. Spicy aromas of black raspberry, cassis, black cherry, licorice and cocoa powder. Supple and lush, with a chocolatey merlot character and adequate acidity. Not especially dense and unusually forward for a northern Medoc wine from this vintage. Finishes with dusty tannins and good but not outstanding length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

Tasted two or three times before, the 1998 Calon Segur is a wine that showed well from barrel but became rather curmudgeonly in bottle. This bottle replicated the one shown at BI Wine & Spirit’s Calon Segur dinner early in 2016. It is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot and…