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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale yellow. Less expressive on the nose than the Bienvenue, conveying a honeyed ripeness and a hint of resiny oak. Then tightly clenched in the mouth, with a penetrating orange juice flavor dominating. Not at all a fat wine, this is hard to taste today and needs time to expand. Its power suggests that it…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a reductive nose but there is some fine fruit here, touches of orange pith, honeysuckle and melted candle wax. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a hint of wood to be subsumed on the entry, impressive depth with a slightly toasty finish. Tasted blind…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru does not quite convey the same degree of energy as its peers. Flint and green apple notes gradually unfurl; maybe this is just more backward? The palate is definitely backward and yet there is a lot of weight in the mouth. It initially feels a little clammed shut…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(this wine was aging in the grand cru room of the cellar): Aromas of nectarine and minerals convey an almost oily impression as well as a note of reduction. Then almost shockingly penetrating in the mouth for such a dense wine, with its nectarine, yellow plum and anise flavors enlivened by scintillating lemony acidity. Finishes…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Petrus was bottled in June 2020. “I feel the wine changed a lot since primeur, and since bottling,” commented winemaker Olivier Berrouet, “gaining an extra layer of complexity and more subtlety, the tannins are more polished. You still feel the tannins that have improved in barrel, but it needs aging.” It has a…