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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Dark red cherry, plum, tobacco and spice notes flesh out in the 2014 de Fonbel. Pliant, supple and inviting, the wine needs another 6-12 months in bottle to fully come together. Even so, it is quite tasty today, with lovely juiciness to its dark red and purplish-toned fruit and good aromatic freshness. The blend is…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2004 Cristal has always been one of my favorites. It is all that again today. A Champagne of precision and nuance, the 2004 impresses with its linear cut and saline intensity. Readers will find a Cristal built on vibrancy more than power or opulence. In this tasting, the 2004 is an absolute stunner. These…

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2001 l’Eglise-Clinet is a wine that I have encountered many times both from bottle and magnum. It is a superb Pomerol with a crystalline bouquet that exudes pure red berry fruit laced with smoke and truffle, almost Burgundian in style with immense precision. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful harmony and precision thanks to…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good medium ruby. Quintessential Pomerol nose combines roasted black raspberry, coffee liqueur and chocolate. Suave, sweet and voluptuous, with a wonderfully pliant texture and a flamboyantly expressive personality. This sent a shiver of pleasure up my spine. Notes of chocolate liqueur and game, with a complicating mineral component. Hugely rich, sexy wine whose tannins coat…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 1999 Cristal is very pretty. It’s a rare Cristal vintage with a bit more Chardonnay than the norm. Apricot, spice, ginger, hazelnut and exotic tropical fruits all open with some aeration. The 1999 shows good depth and density, but it is hard to get past some of the angular contours that remain. Dosage is…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby. Complex nose melds blackberry, minerals, bitter chocolate, graphite and violet. Suave and deep on entry, then fresh and alive in the middle palate, with compelling sweetness and intensity to the black cherry, smoky mineral and tobacco flavors. The smooth finish is long, intense and irresistible. At once serious and sexy.