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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(87% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 1.5% each petit verdot and cabernet franc; 36% of the total crop) Full, bright, purple-tinged ruby. Violet and blackcurrants on the nose; with its dominant black fruits, this is completely different from the Pavillon Rouge, which is all about red fruits. Enters the mouth discreetly, then picks up volume…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Château Margaux has an attractive bouquet of mulberry, red plum, briary, a hint of rose petal rather than its signature note of violets. It gains intensity with aeration, but to my surprise it feels quite forward for a 10-year old First Growth. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite Pauillac in style…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

A stunning wine, the 2017 Ornellaia offers a captivating interplay of richness and energy. Picking early was the key. Young vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were harvested in August for the first time ever. In the glass, the 2017 offers up an enticing mélange of mocha, cedar, tobacco and licorice, with soft curves that add…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is fascinating to taste, as it is quite different in style from the original release. Because of the extra three years or so on the lees, the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) has picked up a reductive note that is not typical of Cristal. Scents of lime, crushed rock, lemon and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very strong mousse. Deep, yeasty aromas dominated by toffee, butterscotch and toast. Quite powerful but already harmonious, with real thickness of flavor and oily extract leavened by ripe acidity. Very fresh in the mouth, with very ripe hints of yellow fruits and strawberry complicated by leesy and toasty flavors in the background. A large-scaled, extremely…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2009 Mouton Rothschild is exceptionally beautiful. A huge, powerful wine, the 2009 possesses stunning richness and radiance, with plenty of underlying structure to support all of that exuberance. Smoke, grilled herbs, tobacco and incense give the 2009 much of its exotic, captivating personality. Seamless, opulent, yet with terrific freshness, the 2009 is sure to…