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2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

The 2013 Conteisa is unusually dark and virile in this vintage. Black cherry, smoke, licorice, leather and melted road tar give the Conteisa much of its dark, brooding personality. That impression is reinforced by the wine’s imposing tannic structure and overall feel. Conteisa is typically a wine more of finesse than power, but the 2013…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina is distinctly powerful and savory in this vintage. Iron, smoke and tobacco open up in a wine that is constantly changing in the glass. Initially quite reticent, the 2010 blossoms with air as the aromatics release and the tannins start to soften. There is a lot going on in…

Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

The 1997 Solaia is a wine that I remember made a huge splash on release (I recall buying dozens of cases from Switzerland to ship to Japan). It had been many years since I last tasted it. Poured from magnum, I find a little smudged on the nose compared directly with the 1988 Sassicaia. This…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

The 1997 is a famous Solaia, and it is superb tonight. Opulent and rich in the glass, the 1997 (magnum) is also surprisingly tannic for a wine of its age. I admire its inner perfume and overall richness, but in this flight I have a slight preference for the 1994 and 1995.

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Saturated, solid ruby-black. Powerful nose of blackcurrants, blackberries, sweet herbs, and vanilla; focused and penetrating. Rich and potent in flavor, with concentrated cassis fruit of impeccable ripeness. Complementary notes of chocolate and tar. Sumptuous and authoritative; iron and velvet in perfect symbiosis. Antinori CEO is Renzo Cotarella, a professional winemaker with a doctorate in chemistry-a…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(the 2017 premier crus are aging in about 20% new oak): Aromas of peach, vanilla and spicy oak are lifted by stony energy. Precise and clean, showing lovely density without any impression of weight. A strong peach flavor is accented by a touch of minerality on the subtly long back end.