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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

(53% cabernet sauvignon, 41% merlot and 6% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of plum, mulberry, chocolate and animal fur. Sweet and reasonably deep, with good definition and energy. Finishes with fairly serious but nicely buffered tannins and very good length. This still needs some time to come together.

Champagne: The 2016 Summer Preview (Aug 2016)

The flagship 2004 Brut Sir Winston Churchill is creamy, ample and highly expressive, but it is also a bit more forward than I expected for the vintage. Apricot jam, honey, spice, smoke, brioche and lovely hints of toastiness all add to the wine’s considerable appeal, while there is no shortage of density or volume. All…

Barbaresco: Worlds Apart (Oct 2016)

The 2013 Barbaresco is fabulous. In fact, this is one of the best Barbarescos I have tasted at Gaja in many years. Vibrant, perfumed and beautifully sculpted in the glass, the 2013 possesses tons of understated intensity. Sweet red cherry, mint, white pepper and anise are all lifted in the glass. The 2013 is an…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

Philippe Blanc mentioned how the 2004 Beychevelle was picked ten days earlier than wanted because of rot. “We harvested ten hectares of Merlot in a day, on a Sunday, which saved us,” he recalls. It has quite a punchy bouquet with ample redcurrant and cranberry fruit, clove and thyme, though it lacks the precision and…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2012 Cristal is the first made entirely from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Passionfruit, mango, spice and ginger open first, but it is the wine’s textural richness and volume that stand out most. The 2012 is one of the most opulent, flamboyant recent Cristals. Those qualities feel especially amplified in this tasting, perhaps because of the…