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The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Good deep red. Cassis, black cherry, dark plum and crushed stone on the sappy, high-pitched nose. Dense and thick but energetic as well, offering captivating inner-mouth perfume to the black fruit, violet, spice and licorice flavors. Shows a medicinal reserve and a youthful roughness to its tannins on the long, spicy back end. These vines…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(just a bit of frost here; these heavily virused vines planted in the 1950s routinely produce tiny grapes, according to Coche): Lively aromas of lime, lemon and crushed stone. At once dense and penetrating, conveying terrific concentration and inner-mouth tension. (Coche told me he considers this wine to be almost at the level of the…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin-Clos des Ruchottes is one of the more perfumed, lifted wines in the range. There is good depth on the attack and through the mid-palate but the finish turns a bit compact, albeit with lovely invigorating freshness. It will be interesting to see if the 2013 gains a bit more weight in bottle….

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Reduced nose dominated by strawberry and raspberry. Wonderfull silky on entry, then quite closed on the back half, with the element of reduction carrying through on the palate. Showed some enticing dark raspberry and game notes with air. Finishes firmly tannic but not dry. This wine was tough to taste following Rousseau’s…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(vinified entirely with whole clusters in a new 180-liter barrel made specially for the tiny quantity of fruit–18 hectoliters per hectare–produced in 2016): Good deep red. An aroma of raspberry is given lift and punch by chalky mineral pungency and a note of white pepper. Boasts outstanding thickness and finesse of texture, conveying a bulletproof…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(two of the five barrels were new until the racking): Medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, flowers and minerals, plus a hint of chocolatey oak. Velvety and sweet but reticent today, with alluring flavors of redcurrant and darker berries given cut and definition by crushed-stone minerality. Wonderfully rich and sweet for the vintage, and more perfumed…