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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(13.5% alcohol, with a pH of 3.9) Full red. Wild, carnal aromas of red fruits, truffle, licorice, toffee and smoke. Sweet, lush and smooth, but with an edge of acidity firming the red berry, smoke, truffle, earth and animal fur flavors. This wine was only racked twice: in June of 2003, and then a second…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full yellow with a gold tinge. Very ripe aromas of dried yellow stone fruits, pineapple and chalky minerality. Then round, silky and seamless, offering lovely integrated acidity but relying even more on its minerality for balance (Morandière described this wine as a less extreme version of the 2015). At once tactile and smooth but still…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2006 Blanc des Millenaires is a rich, punchy Champagne that captures all of the radiant intensity of this warm year. Apricot, lemon confit and tropical accents bring out the more extroverted side of Chardonnay. Warm, toasty brioche notes add to its considerable appeal. This is a terrific showing. Best of all, the 2006 will…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1976 Lafite-Rothschild has for many years been the surprise of an otherwise tricky vintage. This bottle replicated the one I opened back in November 2006. Mature in colour with a wide brick time, the bouquet is open-knit with Montecristos, graphite and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced, perhaps having lost some…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage that I used to taste regularly, but now, not for a few years. I love it whilst my neighbor is less impressed, that being Saskia de Rothschild. What a lovely Lafite! I exclaim trying to persuade her and failing miserably. Blackberry, melted tar, a touch of truffle mixed with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favorite vintages of the decade, and this bottle, served blind, replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. However, at first, it feels a little disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d’épices, black truffle and meat juices….