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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red. Pungent aromas of currant, cherry skin, leather, graphite, olive and flowers. Suave, minerally and penetrating, with lovely energy and floral lift. Not at all a fleshy style but classic, vibrant and firmly built, finishing with excellent lift.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Lafite-Rothschild is the best of the triumvirate that ended the decade. Another bottle vindicates that view. It shows an intense bouquet with graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with cedar aromatics that seem to effortlessly cruise as Lafite is wont to do. The palate is beautifully balanced and blossoms in the glass. The 1988 has…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents—blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet—all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from several lieux-dits and was taken from vat as the final blend. It has a perfumed, slightly minty bouquet. The palate is balanced with slightly lower acidity than the previous vintage. It's quite light with a touch of sour lemon on the finish. Fine, but it needs to gain a…