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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The first bottle was the aforementioned 1999 Grands-Echézeaux from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which our host had opened the previous night at another dinner, so it was just ‘to see’. You could tell it was a great wine. However, it wasn’t an instance whereby a wine was better the second day, and it was too…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

In this setting, the 2012 Cristal Rosé is a cut above the 2012 Cristal. The Rosé’s explosive energy and vibrancy are both compelling, and also a very fine match for the food. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and creaminess of the year. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and 45%…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Lynch Bages, which contains 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest thus far, has a refined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, orange rind and light graphite scents, holding up very nicely after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, finely balanced with a keen line of acidity and a dash of…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Lynch Bages, which contains 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest thus far, has a refined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, orange rind and light graphite scents, holding up very nicely after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, finely balanced with a keen line of acidity and a dash of…

It’s Rousseau’Clock: Grand Crus 1967-2019

The 2002 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru could well be the best wine from Eric and Charles Rousseau that year. It definitely takes it up a level vis-à-vis the Ruchottes- and Charmes-Chambertin. Multi-dimensional aromas, a cornucopia of red and black fruit, hints of Earl Grey, forest floor and light tobacco scents. There is a sense of…