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2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

(like La Tache, this was still on its lees and not yet racked) Deep, slightly reduced, smoky aromas. Fat and sweet but succulent, harmonious acids give it a penetrating quality. Powerful flavors of red cherry and spice. Quite firm on the aftertaste. This component will be racked only for the final assemblage From a second…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

Following a two-year hiatus due to sub-par vintage conditions, Destiny Bay’s top cuvée, Magna Praemia, is back in 2019. It has the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon of the three cuvées (75%) and, while silken and welcoming on entry, offers the most poise, restraint and sinew, lending direction, structure and freshness. Layers of flavor emerge,…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

Following a two-year hiatus due to sub-par vintage conditions, Destiny Bay’s top cuvée, Magna Praemia, is back in 2019. It has the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon of the three cuvées (75%) and, while silken and welcoming on entry, offers the most poise, restraint and sinew, lending direction, structure and freshness. Layers of flavor emerge,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

Though I have tasted most vintages of this estate, it is my first encounter with the 1988 Domaine de Chevalier when I visited the property. It has a dark garnet core with commensurate bricking on the rim for a 30-year old wine. The bouquet is decidedly old school: vestiges of black fruit intermingling with cigar…

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 12.5% alcohol): Amber-tinged red. Strong notes of torrefaction dominate the delicate red cherry, herb and smoky forest floor aromas. Sweet and rich on entry, with lively acidity framing the red cherry and forest floor flavors. I like this wine’s mouthwatering juiciness and chewy texture; it lacks…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full saturated ruby. Superripe, liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, blackberry, espresso and bitter chocolate, with a suggestion of exotic spices. Lush and smooth, but not yet expressive in the middle palate; shows a rather cool camphor note. I’d like to have seen more flesh and sweetness. Finishes with substantial, rather tough tannins that seem a bit…