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Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese presents a dark, brooding expression of Sangiovese in its herb, tobacco, menthol, spice and black cherries, with superb ripeness to fill out its classically structured frame. It offers outstanding length on the palate and its big, building tannins suggest it is a wine that, like past vintages, is capable…

Ian D’Agata on Chianti, Carmignano and Montepulciano (Jul 2007)

Ruby-red. Clean, fresh aromas and flavors of floral red berries, citrus, sage and marjoram. On the light side, with good vinosity and a somewhat short but nicely perfumed, floral finish. The wine’s slightly edgy acids and light tannins are in balance with its fruit. Not a blockbuster but enjoyably fruity and fresh.

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Deep red. Very dark, pure aromas of black fruits, licorice and violet. Dense, deep and subtle, with chewy flavors of black fruits, game and cola. Finishes rich and long, with palate-saturating breadth, a wonderful subtle sweetness and excellent grip.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

(68% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 12% cabernet franc) Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, licorice and mocha on the nose. Densely packed and juicy, with sharply delineated dark berry and floral flavors. Large-scaled but light on its feet owing to its lovely lift. Serious, gripping wine with a long, bright finish.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, which was bottled earlier than the Champans, has an intense nose of black cherries, blueberry, seaweed and iodine. The palate continues that theme: saline on the entry, dense and grippy, and very nicely focused with a lively, lightly spiced finish. Real succulence here, and very good persistence;…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good bright red. Very ripe aromas of raspberry and smoky minerals. Fat, plush and sweet, offering noteworthy density to its strawberry and raspberry fruit. Finishes rich and long, with sweet tannins and no rough edges. Lovely potential.