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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Gloria, which would have been vinified in large wood tanks and a few epoxy-lined steel tanks, is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It is showing some bricking on the rim. The nose is fully mature with red fruit, mushroom, sous-bois and fennel, open and slightly rustic, yet charming….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red. Plum, mocha, meat and leather; grew distinctly gamier and more rustic as it opened in the glass. Sweet, fat and broad, with lovely texture and palate presence. Finishes with fine tannins and persistent sweet fruit.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(from vines facing southeast, whereas the regular Clos de Beze is from south-facing vines; these vines are also a bit older: 55 years vs. 45): Good deep red. A coulis of red fruits sharpened by blood orange on the nose. Less reduced and more vibrant than the cuvee classique and utterly primary in the mouth,…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(from vines facing southeast, whereas the regular Clos de Beze is from south-facing vines; these vines are also a bit older: 55 years vs. 45): Good deep red. A coulis of red fruits sharpened by blood orange on the nose. Less reduced and more vibrant than the cuvee classique and utterly primary in the mouth,…

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

A last minute addition to the lineup, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2005 Romanée Saint-Vivant opens with the most extraordinary, alluring bouquet imaginable. Silky, nuanced and super-polished on the palate, with exceptional purity, the 2005 simply soars out of the glass. The classic weightlessness of RSV comes through loud and clear. Bright saline notes give the…