Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Soil-inflected aromas of toffee, nuts, white chocolate, menthol and iodine. Superconcentrated, dense and ripe; seems like a full dosage, but the impression of sweetness may be partly due to the wine’s thick extract and solidity. Extraordinarily tactile, chewy Champagne that will need several years to harmonize and may ultimately merit a score in the mid-90s….

Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc; 3.33 pH; 12.8 % alcohol): Dark brick-red, fairly evolved in color. The sexy nose offers delicate aromas of red berries, spicecake, licorice and leather lifted by a floral topnote. Then fruitier on the palate, with a silky-sweet, dense, sappy texture, lovely definition, and an intriguing earthy complexity to the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Magdelaine is a vintage that I have only encountered a couple of times. I wish it was more. Wonderful transparency on the nose, this has a sensual nose of Morello cherries, raspberry and lavender, hints of freshly shucked oyster shell that emerge with time. The palate has a sweet entry, beautifully balanced, one…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Roasted red fruits, marzipan and animal fur on the superripe nose. Sweet and ripe but with a mineral firmness contributing to the wine steely spine. This very penetrating wine is still rather tannic and tight, and in need of a couple more years of patience.

Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1998 Le Pin has always been a bit of a lush. The bouquet is sexy and very candied: crème de cassis, crushed violets, blueberries and incense. This is a seductive Pomerol that wants to skip small talk and go back to yours for coffee. The…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Exotic aromas of passionfruit, raspberry, cocoa powder and coconutty oak. Currently tighter in the mouth and less expansive than the ’99 but very intensely flavored, stylish and solidly structured. This wine, too, possesses an impressive tight core of fruit. Juicy aftertaste features exotic fruits and some tart red berry notes of cranberry and…