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Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Pale green-edged color. Lime, nuts and marzipan on the nose, along with a complicating leesy aspect. Rich and pliant but quite dry, with flavors of pink grapefruit and spice. Fresh and focused. A very successful combination of weight and restraint. Lingering, subtle aftertaste.

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

Soldera’s 1991 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is forward, open-knit an mostly resolved, with plenty of stone fruit, leather, smoke, tobacco and earthy notes laced throughout. Although quite pretty and enjoyable, the 1991 Riserva is a wine that has arrived. It won’t get any better or more expressive than it is today.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep red-ruby color. Liqueur-like aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil, truffle and smoked meat. Magically sweet and silky in the mouth, with superb depth of flavor and a complete absence of rough edges. A huge wine with utterly compelling sweetness and great terroir character. Powerful if somewhat unrestrained. Finishes ripely tannic, long and sweet. Many…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

Another dazzling wine, the 1982 Pichon Lalande is utterly profound from the very first taste. In the glass, the 1982 is powerful and explosive, with seemingly endless layers of flavor that continue to unfurl over time. Vivid, intensely aromatic and seamless, the 1982 has enough pedigree and depth to drink well for at least several…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a benchmark vintage for the estate, although I have not encountered a perfect bottle for around 20 years, when I believe the wine was at its height. Still, this is a lovely Pauillac with plush black and blue fruit on the nose, like before, almost Margaux-like in terms…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1982 Pichon-Lalande has a very pure bouquet, sensual and beautifully defined, featuring blackberry and hints of graphite, and later crushed violet, so that the aromatics are almost Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly edgy, balsamic-tinged entry. There is great depth, focus and power here, though in recent encounters I find the secondary…