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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright medium ruby. Reticent but complex nose opened with air to display an almost roasted ripeness to the aromas of dark berries and licorice. Sweet, deep and lush, showing brooding dark berry and black cherry fruit sexed up by an exotic chocolate liqueur quality. A hugely rich but rather inscrutable wine. This was much deeper…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn’t…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn’t…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(13.2% natural alcohol, from vines picked at the end): Full ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice and spices convey a gamey wildness plus a whiff of adhesive tape that quickly dissipated. Densely packed and a bit high-toned, with no lack of acidity to the flavors of crushed blackberry and tropical dark chocolate. This very ripe…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

The 1999 belongs to the family of warm, ripe vintage at Salon. An atypically big, dense wine by Salon standards, the 1999 is somewhat one-dimensional and not likely to improve considerably from here. At the same time, the 1999 has more than enough depth to drink well for a number of years. All things considered,…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

Bright yellow-gold. Deeply pitched, pungent aromas of candied lemon, pear skin, anise, buttered toast and smoky lees, with notes of ginger and white flowers adding lift. Densely packed yet vibrant, showing impressive power and clarity to its mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Expands on the finish but maintains its focus, picking up iodine and…