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Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

The 1988 Krug Collection, a 2017 disgorgement, offers an enticing bouquet of grilled walnut, baked bread and a touch of freshly baked gingerbread on the nose, displaying exquisite delineation and focus. A tang of bitterness on the entry refreshes the senses. This champagne is impressive in terms of depth and salinity. Vibrant and bright, it…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 1988 Collection is at that magical place where Champagne starts to become more vinous and wine-like. Apricot, chamomile, graphite, mint and lightly honeyed notes gradually open with a bit of time in the glass. Gracious and understated, with silky contours and exceptional finesse, the 1988 is a total knock-out. Krug ID: 417035. (Originally published…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lynch Bages has a precocious bouquet with bold, perhaps slightly monolithic licorice-infused black fruit, touches of camphor and pencil shavings that emerge with time. The palate is dense and powerful with weighty, slightly glossy black fruit. Not a complex Lynch-Bages, it is missing a bit of freshness and tension that urges you back…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2003 Lynch-Bages has a rich and forward nose with licorice-infused black fruit, black plum and melted tar. This is very concentrated with sweet black fruit, cedar and mint, but it feels a little heavy in the mouth and is missing some complexity and freshness on the finish. A bit labored compared to coeval vintages?…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good medium ruby. Expressive nose offers blackcurrant, plum, licorice, roasted herbs, smoke and minerals. Supple and refined, with lovely perfume and restrained sweetness. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that coat the front teeth and turn a bit dry with aeration. Needs aging, but does not appear to possess the concentration or power of the best…