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Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1955 Taylor’s Vintage Port is tight on the nose with notes of red cherry, fig, marmalade and tobacco leaf, all quite conservative and correct. The palate is very well balanced, beautifully defined and graceful but it does not have the brio, the hubris of the 1945 or 1948, missing the intellectual dimension of the…

Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru (Jan 2021)

With the possible exception of the 1945 and 1928 Yquem, the 1967 is, by most people’s reckoning, the benchmark Sauternes of the 20th century. This bottle more than lived up to that reputation. Deep gold in color, it offers up a dizzying array of scents ranging from singed orange peel, caramelized pear, apricot nectar, fig…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

This bottle of 1967 Yquem was poured following a Petrus vertical at Hide restaurant alongside the 1893. Very concentrated grapes were picked from 26 September to 26 October. It has a wonderful bouquet, entrancing, scents of dried honey, crème brûlée, caramelised pear, fresh figs and quince bursting from the glass with fabulous delineation. Almost Barsac-like…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Gloria, which would have been vinified in large wood tanks and a few epoxy-lined steel tanks, is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It is showing some bricking on the rim. The nose is fully mature with red fruit, mushroom, sous-bois and fennel, open and slightly rustic, yet charming….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red. Plum, mocha, meat and leather; grew distinctly gamier and more rustic as it opened in the glass. Sweet, fat and broad, with lovely texture and palate presence. Finishes with fine tannins and persistent sweet fruit.