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Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Pear, spices, yellow stone fruits and smoke meld together in the Brut Grand Vintage. Rich and ample on the palate, the 2004 impresses for its balance, richness and volume. This bottle is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the bottle I reviewed last year. Early signs of development are just now starting to…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(38% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir and 29% pinot meunier; aged on its lees for seven years, with a relatively low 5 g/l dosage; LAHFU): Bright yellow. Heady, complex bouquet of fresh nectarine, pear and melon, with notes of smoky lees and white flowers adding complexity. Bright, mineral-driven orchard and pit fruit flavors show impressive depth…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1998 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, is so much better than the succeeding vintage, one that I have admired since first tasting it just after bottling. There is much more complexity and personality on the nose with vivacious red berry fruit, the rose petals and kirsch that I noticed before, maybe here with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Perfumed, sappy aromas of redcurrant, flowers and minerals. Intensely flavored, high-pitched and penetrating, with a deep core of spice contributing to the impression of vinosity. Shows a youthful austerity today. Finishes very long and brisk, with substantial, dusty tannins. I always think of Michael Broadbent descriptor flavory (actually, flavoury) when I taste a dry,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Ducru Beaucaillou is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot that was picked between 24 September and 7 October. It has a lucid ruby hue with very little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is ripe, almost heady in style, glossy perhaps with kirsch, maraschino cherries, vanilla and crushed rose petals….

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

Bright red with an amber rim. Captivating nose of dark plum, blackcurrant, oak, coffee, cocoa and flowers. Juicy, sweet and suave on entry, then brightly focused in its red fruit and black flavors complicated by cedar and citrus. Finishes with flinty, saline nuances and very suave tannins. This outstanding wine is perfectly balanced and light…