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Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Viognier Estate Reserve comes from vines on grey white shale (new plantings from 2016 were destroyed in the wildfire), so there is just 1.8-hectares that “soldiered on”. It has a backward nose with lime flower and light waxy scents. This feels very contained, then discrete menthol aromas surface. The palate is rounded in…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Village comes from eight different parcels around the appellation, kept separate during the élevage. It has an attractive bouquet with yellow plum and praline scents and a light brioche aroma that intensifies with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity, fresh and poised with good presence and…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru might be a little more compact on the nose compared to the Clos de la Roche at the moment, yet I feel that this has more focus and cohesion by comparison. Wonderful mineralité here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, an entrancing symmetry here with a caressing, almost…

The Future Is Beaujolais: 2020-2022 Releases (May 2023)

The 2020 Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Coeur takes time to unfurl on the nose, quite intense like the Carquelin, but with more red fruit by comparison: raspberry coulis, black cherries and iris petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, with fine grained tannins, pleasing structure and pliancy towards the finish. Maybe the Carquelin has…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Mev. Kirsten has a perfumed bouquet, quite floral, apricot blossom, hints of strawberry and lemon verbena. The palate is well balanced with good weight and density, slightly oily in texture; a touch of lemon rind with a white pepper appear towards the finish. Superb, though the Skurfburg seems to have a little more…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Ruby-red. Mineral-tinged red and blue fruits on the assertively perfumed nose, along with hints of garrigue and exotic spices. Appealingly sweet and broad in the mouth, offering intense cherry and boysenberry flavors that slowly deepen on the back half. Discreet tannins add subtle grip to a long, sappy finish that repeats the floral and spice…