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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good full red. Profound, multidimensional nose combines redcurrant, plums, raspberry, cherry, mocha and humus: really quite singular. Wonderful sweetness and depth of flavor; lush but with a firm spine. Already offers compelling inner-mouth perfume, but I suspect this wine will soon close down. Finishes with terrific length and very suave, sweet tannins that coat the…

Vintage Retrospective: 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (May 2016)

Dark red-ruby. Knockout nose combines raspberry, plum, mocha, game, minerals and tobacco. Offers alluring Right Bank sweetness but also superb energy and definition; a lovely combination of Old World nuance and dark Napa Valley fruit. As suave and fine-grained as this wine is, it’s also penetrating and gripping, stony and high-pitched. Finishes with terrific tannic…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo La Serra is bright, floral and lifted, as wines from this La Morra site tend to be. Crushed flowers, red berry fruit, chalk and blood orange give the 2017 an attractive upper register and plenty of aromatic presence. Drink it over the next decade.

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep, glistening red. Expansive, smoke- and spice-accented cherry, cassis and floral scents, along with hints of vanilla and cigar box. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering vibrant red and blue fruit, spicecake, succulent herb and vanilla flavors that show a suave blend of depth and vivacity. Smooth, well-knit tannins build slowly on the very long,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…