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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep red-ruby. Deep but reticent aromas of redcurrant, tobacco leaf, licorice and loam; I don’t find the typical floral high notes of Margaux. Juicy, fine-grained and suave, with good definition and a seamless, spherical texture to the currant and soil flavors. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins, but not the grip or power…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Deep, vibrant aromas of currant, sour cherry, graphite, cedar and licorice. Sappy, suave and energetic, with terrific verve and framing acidity to the tightly wound flavors of dark cherry, currant, spices and minerals. Wonderfully primary and penetrating Saint-Julien, almost painfully intense yet weightless. Finishes very long and fine, with terrific definition. An infant…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2006 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, has quite a captivating, very attractive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit, peony, crushed rocks and blood orange – one of my favourite aromatics on the Left Bank in this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, quite linear and…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2006 La Conseillante has a surprisingly rich and opulent bouquet that might lack complexity but goes for sheer hedonism. Mulberry, hints of fresh fig and prune, this is a La Conseillante that has avowed not to be outshone by the previous two vintages, though you can argue that it accomplishes that in rather obvious…