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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a benchmark vintage for the estate, although I have not encountered a perfect bottle for around 20 years, when I believe the wine was at its height. Still, this is a lovely Pauillac with plush black and blue fruit on the nose, like before, almost Margaux-like in terms…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1982 Pichon-Lalande has a very pure bouquet, sensual and beautifully defined, featuring blackberry and hints of graphite, and later crushed violet, so that the aromatics are almost Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly edgy, balsamic-tinged entry. There is great depth, focus and power here, though in recent encounters I find the secondary…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is layered with red cherry, plum, licorice and dried flower notes. There is plenty of energy and tension. It will be interesting to see if the tannins soften a bit. Today, the 2017 is a bit assertive, but that may soften in time. We will see.