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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2006 Cos d’Estournel, for my mind, has always been leagues above its rival, Montrose, principally because its rival took a rare misstep in this vintage. It has an attractive ferrous bouquet with undergrowth and hints of Indian spice. The palate is medium-bodied and quite fleshy for Saint-Estèphe, the Merlot in quite expressive. The texture…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep ruby-red. Expressive aromas of dark raspberry, smoked meat, black olive, iron, smoke and tobacco. Lush, broad and sweet, with a deep smoky, meaty sweetness and outstanding palate coverage. For all its breadth and silkiness, there’s no shortage of energy and definition. Finishes impressively long, with chewy, sweet tannins that dust the front teeth.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Understated, pure aromas of musky stone, orange, smoke and truffle. Full, ripe and harmonious; not a huge or superconcentrated wine but quite subtle and fine, with brisk, juicy flavors of orange and minerals. Lingering, ripe finish.

Domaine Leroy: The 2015s From Bottle (Mar 2018)

Because of the tiny yields in 2015, Leroy bottled a single Nuits-Saint-Georges that includes fruit from Aux Allots, Aux Lavières and Bas de Combe. There is lovely energy and tension to match the wine’s mid-weight personality. Hints of graphite, smoke, plum, black cherry and earthiness add considerable nuance. The 2015 is an attractive wine, but…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(20% new oak): Dark red. Alluring scents of black raspberry, violet, spices and licorice. Juicy and penetrating, with perfectly integrated acidity framing and extending the flavors of boysenberry, coffee and bitter chocolate. This bracing wine finishes with substantial dusty tannins and noteworthy grip and class.

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(10% new oak): Bright medium red. Captivating nose offers aromas of cherry, brown spices, mocha, menthol and underbrush lifted by high notes of blood orange and flowers. Liqueur-like raspberry and spice flavors show outstanding precision and perfume thanks to a firm mineral spine. Finishes spicy, refined and very long, saturating the mouth without leaving any…