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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru does not quite convey the same degree of energy as its peers. Flint and green apple notes gradually unfurl; maybe this is just more backward? The palate is definitely backward and yet there is a lot of weight in the mouth. It initially feels a little clammed shut…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(this wine was aging in the grand cru room of the cellar): Aromas of nectarine and minerals convey an almost oily impression as well as a note of reduction. Then almost shockingly penetrating in the mouth for such a dense wine, with its nectarine, yellow plum and anise flavors enlivened by scintillating lemony acidity. Finishes…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Petrus was bottled in June 2020. “I feel the wine changed a lot since primeur, and since bottling,” commented winemaker Olivier Berrouet, “gaining an extra layer of complexity and more subtlety, the tannins are more polished. You still feel the tannins that have improved in barrel, but it needs aging.” It has a…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Pétrus is a wine of pure and total sensuality. Silky, creamy tannins wrap around a core of dark red and black fruit. A wine with explosive depth but no hard edges and mind-blowing balance, the 2020 is so alluring, even in the early going. Time in the glass brings out lifted floral top…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Petrus is limpid purple in color. It has a classic bouquet with a distinct marine influence, offering hints of shucked oyster shell married with extraordinarily pure black fruit and a touch of pressed iris flower, all focused and very controlled (perhaps more so than other vintages). Loamy scents percolate through with time. The…