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Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2002 Brane-Cantenac has long been a vintage that is difficult to love, and this is no exception. Matured in 70% new oak, it has a tobacco-dominated bouquet that rather suppresses the black fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with blackberry, cedar and a splash of soy, though perhaps less of the tobacco element that…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wonderful wine. Here it has a superb, quite aristocratic bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone, clove and just a subtle marine tincture. It just seems to grow in stature. The palate is extremely well balanced with firm backbone, great density with a muscular, quite grippy finish. It just…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wonderful wine. Here it has a superb, quite aristocratic bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone, clove and just a subtle marine tincture. It just seems to grow in stature. The palate is extremely well balanced with firm backbone, great density with a muscular, quite grippy finish. It just…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep, bright red. Offers an extra dimension on the nose, with captivating sappy red fruits, minerals, blood orange, clove, menthol and bitter chocolate. Enters the mouth thick and opulent, then wonderfully dense and seamless in the middle, with compelling sweetness and piquant minerality. The back half of the wine shows the powerful, structured side of…

Antinori Solaia – A Complete Retrospective 1978-2010 (Dec 2013)

I have never loved the 2008 Solaia, and that impression is reinforced on this night. If anything, the 2008 suffers in this setting, where the differences between vintages is stark. A mid-weight Solaia, the 2008 looks like it will drink best over the near and medium-term.