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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru has a thrilling bouquet struck through with mineral-rich red berry fruit that teasingly takes time to unfurl in the glass; you can sense the limestone, and hints of graphite emerge later. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, quite piquant in style, leading to an edgy, slightly…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an intriguing, involving bouquet, a mixture of red and blue fruit that is a little disjointed at first but coheres nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, plenty of red fruit and a fleshy, silky finish. Very fine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Clos de la Roches Grand Cru, which is tasted from two barrels since one is reduced, has a well defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, candied orange peel, hints of cassis and later, vanilla pod. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, slightly sorbet in character with hints of mulberry and fig towards…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is highly perfumed on the nose, presenting an irresistible mixture of red and subtle blue fruit, very harmonious and exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. A feminine and very elegant Clos de la Roche that may well be earlier-drinking than others but feels very…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined, slightly tertiary bouquet with light tobacco notes filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite peppery, fresh with a nicely structured finish. More Mazoyères than Charmes, this coheres beautifully in the glass and develops a seductive velvety texture. Tasted blind at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has quite a mineral-driven bouquet, a little more austere than others I have tasted, but more terroir-expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, sweet and generous. There’s a lot of sucrosity on the finish, though offset by the acidity. Very seductive.