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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet, fresh, taut and understated compared to its peers, perhaps the most elegant of an octet of Chevaliers tasted blind. The well-balanced palate delivers real power, offering flavors of candied orange peel and spices and a fine saline undercurrent. Harmonious, elegant yet intense, this should age…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Precise, high-pitched scents of lemon and lime ice and crushed rock. The palate communicates outstanding stony, limey intensity that’s accentuated by an impression of strong acidity. But despite its penetrating cut and low pH (3.15, according to Pierre Vincent), the wine’s spine is covered by adequate flesh, even in the early going. Flavors of pineapple…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Coffee, cedar, spice and blackcurrant aromas. Fresh, nicely delineated fruit of good richness and depth. Lingering, moderately tannic finish. Quite refined alongside the more exotic ’89, but this wine lacks the fat and concentration of the best ’90s.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, roasted nuts, mocha, espresso and bitter chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated and bright, with the flavors framed by firm tannic spine. Showing a bit more grip today than the ’99, but the ’99 may have more sweetness and density and possesses the stuffing to benefit from the elevage.

Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK (Oct 2021)

The 1998 Palmer showed extremely well. Featuring blackberry, cedar and a touch of black olive on the nose, this has evolved a little since I last tasted it, yet it remains wonderfully defined. The palate is supple and concentrated, with touches of clove and black pepper infusing the black fruit, and gentle grip on the…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Red-ruby color. Lower-pitched, redder aromas of plum, redcurrant and mulberry. Soft, sweet and lush, with an enticing layered texture and plenty of body. Currently more expressive in the middle palate than the ’96 but not quite as sharply delineated; conveys an impression of lower acidity. Finishes with very good length and even, ripe tannins. This…