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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Light bronze color. Mature Champagne notes of brown butter, walnut, apple cider and maple syrup on the nose, along with fresher pear and mineral nuances. Rich, full-bodied and concentrated; a rather powerfully structured Champagne with noteworthy density and firm acidity. Considering the mature flavors, this wine is fresh and focused in the middle palate. Seems…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, full ruby. Pure, vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and leather. Like liquid velvet on entry, then energetic and sharply delineated in the mid-palate, with penetrating minerality intensifying the pristine dark berry flavors. Most impressive today on the extremely long, perfumed finish, which shows suave, noble tannins and a magically light touch…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Bright ruby. Lovely perfumed aromas of fresh red cherry, blackcurrant and violet. Enters full, rich and very suave, showing highly flattering flavors of chocolatey red cherry and red plum along with very good energy, and yet I found myself wanting a bit more precision and lift. There is a wonderfully sumptuous, sensual side to this…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Bright yellow. Vibrant pear and melon aromas are complicated by suggestions of ginger, brioche and smoky minerals. Dry, smoky and precise, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors that gain weight with aeration. A dusty mineral quality adds focus and lift to the long, penetrating, floral finish. There’s a Burgundian thing going on here that’s…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Taittinger fans will want to stock away at least a few bottles of the 2005 Comtes de Champagne, if nothing else to satisfy the urge while some of the more important recent vintages continue to age in the cellar. The 2005 is immediate, deep and nicely textured, with overt fruit and fewer of the intense…