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Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

Taittinger’s 2005 Comtes de Champagne was a perfect way to commence proceedings. Orchard fruit and hints of brioche on the seductive nose are joined by a hint of lemon verbena filtering through with time. The palate is beautifully balanced, perhaps not as riveting as a recently tasted 2008, yet underpinned by a fine bead of…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1982 Petrus is consistent with my previous notes. This has a lovely bouquet, perhaps a little purer than the bottle from February 2018 with just joyful black cherries, black truffle and cedar aromas, more red fruit developing with aeration. I appreciate the brightness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, moderate in terms of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

The bottle in the blind flight appeared to have a healthy cork but was disappointing, with aromas of mocha and menthol; a penetrating middle palate with good but not outstanding richness; hints of herbs and mushroom; and substantial, slightly drying tannins. The second bottle was better but still not up to the reputation of this…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 1.5% cabernet franc and 1.5% petit verdot; 71IPT; from a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare; 13.5% alcohol; a roughly 38% selection) Good, full, dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose offers red fruits, sweet spices, dried bay leaf, soy sauce and an intense saline note. Large-scaled and powerful, with a distinctly salty,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate, complicated by nuances of loam and coffee extract. Dense, thick and sweet, but with harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the pungent cassis, spice and tobacco flavors. Youthfully chewy wine with terrific underlying structure and a very long, sappy finish featuring broad tannins and…