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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% petit verdot; a 50% selection for the grand vin; 80% new oak) Deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of blackcurrant, sweet spices and milk chocolate, nicely lifted by hints of minerals and graphite. Enters the mouth creamy and fruity, with flavors of small berries and plum, then turns somewhat tighter…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Calon-Ségur has a perfumed, floral bouquet that is wonderfully detailed; raspberry and cranberry fruit flanked by rose petal and subtle iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a crisp line of acidity. This is brisk and focused with a light black pepper note cropping up on the finish, the aftertaste…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Red-ruby. Musky, expressive aromas of mocha, smoke, menthol, black olive, underbrush and herbs. A sweet, silky midweight with a strong streak of acidity running through the moderately ripe flavors of currant, black cherry, herbs and minerals. Not hugely ripe but nicely fine-grained. Quite suave but rather ungiving today–and not yet delivering on its complex nose.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2018 Monte Bello is ridiculously young. There’s plenty of energy and drive, but writing a note at this point is rather superfluous. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. Early tastings suggest the 2018 is a Monte Bello built on linear, savory intensity more than volume. I very much like the…

Tuscany 2006 and 2007: A New Golden Age (Aug 2009)

The 2006 Tignanello is especially opulent in this vintage. Masses of dark red fruit, scorched earth and sweet oak emerge as this richly-textured Tignanello flows from the glass. The wine possesses superb density; all it needs is another few years to come together. Today it is remarkably vibrant and primary. Tignanello is 85% Sangiovese, 10%…

2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Mario Fontana’s 2013 Barolo is quite a bit more imposing than the Castiglione Falletto bottling. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice, menthol and melted road tar fill out the wine’s super-classic, mid-weight frame. The 2013 has more fruit and better balance, along with less austerity, than most other recent vintages have shown. And that, is of…