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The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Light yellow-gold. Heady, oak-spiced aromas of ripe citrus and orchard fruits, vanilla, anise and iodine, with a bright floral overtone. Smooth and fleshy on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering palate-staining Meyer lemon, tangerine and poached pear flavors lifted and given spine by juicy acidity. Plays power off of vivacity suavely and finishes sappy,…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Deep vivid ruby. Dark fruit preserve and floral scents, along with hints of olive, vanilla and cracked pepper. Sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering energetic boysenberry and cassis flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Silky and open-knit, showing very good clarity and a subtle floral nuance on the long, gently tannic finish.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clos du Clocher has long been one of the best wines in recent years. It offers plenty of blackberry, raspberry and wild strawberry notes on the nose, powerful and much less rustic than the 1999 served alongside. The palate is again, powerful and concentrated with layers of tightly wound black fruit laced with…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2006 Brane-Cantenac is a vintage that has been rather variable in recent vintages. This was definitely one of the better examples, offering blackberry, mint, sandalwood and cedar on the nose and conveying more energy than I anticipated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, featuring intense blackberry laced with soy, cedar and tobacco. The…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep red. Expressive nose offers black fruits, espresso and musky dark chocolate lifted by an exotic floral component. Juicy, sweet and pliant, with a generosity of texture in the context of the vintage. Has the mid-palate flavor intensity to buffer its tannins and finishes with noteworthy persistence.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 1999 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from September 22 until the morning of September 27, with alcohol degrees between 13.1° and 13.7°. It is a vintage that has not quite delivered as I was expecting it to. It is adorned with an attractive, rather ostentatious bouquet of the red plum and bergamot…