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2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos de l’Oratoire is dense, resonant, but also quite closed in on itself. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice and smoke all meld together in this super-expressive, layered Saint-Émilion. In 2016, Clos de l’Oratoire is quite understated and shows more of an emphasis on freshness than in the past, typical of all the Stephan…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Clos de l’Oratoire did not show well out of barrel but finally appears more knitted together. It has one of the most discreet aromatic profiles of the flight, featuring dark berry fruit with perfumed incense and iris, all very focused and harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. This feels bold and…

The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2004)

Medium red. Complex aromas of cinnamon, minerals, chocolate, macaroon and smoky oak. Juicy, vibrant and penetrating, with still-youthful flavors of strawberry, exotic spices, chocolate and minerals. Not at all a sweet style of wine but offers lovely energy and cut.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has the upper hand over La Mission at the moment, and I don’t see that changing. It’s always been one of my favourite wines of the vintage. Blackberry and black olive, copious incense and terracotta notes almost hypnotize the senses. The palate is supremely well-balanced with finely sculpted tannins that frame the…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has long been one of my favorite wines of this vintage, and at 21 years old it remains a tour de force. Blackberry, briar, black olive, incense and earthenware feature on the nose, which displays wonderful definition and so much personality. The palate is medium-bodied with a mixture of red and black…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted plum, currant, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Compellingly dense and thick but almost miraculously lively and light on its feet. Has a texture like liquid velvet, coating the entire palate. Wonderfully unmanipulated wine, with perfectly integrated acids giving it superb subtle vinosity and thrust. Finishes with outstanding building persistence, with the…