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Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light gold. Smoky, mineral-laced citrus fruits and honeysuckle on the incisive nose. Opens up slowly to offer juicy Meyer lemon and white peach flavors underscored by a note of candied ginger. This taut, focused example delivers plenty of youthful verve and strong finishing cut. I find this quite a bit tighter than the majority of…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2013 Cristal Rosé is searingly intense right out of the glass, just like the Blanc, except it has a bit more fleshiness because of the skin contact on the Pinot. Cristal Rosé has one of the best track records for aging in Champagne. I suspect the 2013 will join the ranks of the epic…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(46% cabernet sauvignon, 41% merlot and 13% cabernet franc) Bright ruby. Cassis, blueberry and a whiff of mint on the nose. Sweet and juicy, with black raspberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors lifted by a note of violet. A nicely round wine with fine, easygoing tannins and a lingering violet quality.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Ségla shows more advanced degradation in color than its peers. The bouquet is quite austere and lacks requisite fruit, rather monotone in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, moderate depth, quite austere with a cedar and tobacco infused finish that suggests this should be consumed sooner rather than later. Tasted blind…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Good dark, bright red. Deep, brooding aromas of blueberry, mulberry, tobacco, mint and pepper. Deep and sweet, with ripe mulberry and raspberry fruit nicely supported by a firm mineral underpinning. At once smooth and sappy, offering a captivating balance of sweetness and ripe acidity. Finishes strong and vibrant, with firm tannins supported by the wine’s…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Full, deep ruby. Black fruits, licorice, leather and game on the nose, with a hint of green bell pepper in the background. Sweet, dense and nicely focused, showing a sappy quality to its blackcurrant, menthol and mineral flavors. Finishes broad and vibrant but with slightly dry tannins. This will no doubt require six or seven…