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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Latour was in fact the first vintage I ever tasted en primeur at the château. It was an early vintage after budburst on 20 March and the picking began on 20 September until 5 October, the Grand Vin a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot (compared to around 9% these days), 4%…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Deep aromas of cassis, licorice and lead pencil. Deeper than Les Forts but currently rather mute in the middle. Strongly minerally. Offers classic Latour structure and spine. Finishes with sneaky, subtle persistence.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru has a pretty bouquet with more personality than the Les Chaumées: orange blossom mixed with pear and light waxy aromas. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry, the concentration countered by a fine bead of acidity and a fresh ginger finish sealing what is a well crafted Chassagne….

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru has a very well defined, floral bouquet of seductive, elegant red cherry and crushed strawberry aromas, a level up from the Village Cru. The pure, poised palate is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannin and a light spicy note toward the elegant finish. It reminds me of Mugneret-Gibourg, which…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Still a stunner, the 2002 Dom Ruinart is just as gorgeous as it has always been. Warm, toasty notes meld into apricots, succulent peaches, white flowers and spices in a rich, expansive Champagne that captures the essence of the year. The 2002 is pure, full-throttle opulence, yet all the elements are very much in balance….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Bright yellow. Powerful smoke- and ginger-accented aromas of poached pear, honey and white flowers, along with a suave mineral overtone and a hint of toasted brioche. Sappy and buttery on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by a chalky mineral nuance. At once fleshy and energetic, finishing…