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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Ripe, juicy and fresh, with lovely violet lift to the dark berry flavors. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering black fruit flavors. Not the last word in complexity but unusually rich and floral in 2005. Wait until 2012.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a delineated and tightly coiled nose with crushed stone-infused green apple, rather fresh considering the growing season, with hints of grass clipping. The palate is cohesive on the entry with a bitter lemon note that lends this Puligny tension; it’s fresh and saline with a cohesive and persistent…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Ane offers traces of orchard fruit, hints of linseed and hazelnut, nicely focused and gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy entry, hints of orange rind and fresh pear and moderate depth with a tensile and slightly pithy finish.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is more backward on the nose compared to the Bienvenue at the moment despite rigorous coaxing. The palate has impressive weight and density, perhaps less finesse than the more approachable Bienvenue at the moment but with more aging potential. It feels long on the saline finish, but it’s surly at…