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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright, amber-tinged pink with pinpoint bubbles. Deep, smoky and complex, with a kaleidoscopic bouquet incorporating wild strawberry, peach, apricot, chestnut honey and cured meat. A firm, strikingly concentrated midweight with powerful flavors of orange peel, raspberry, redcurrant, baking spice and smoked meat and gentle supporting acidity. Smoky, sweet and long on the back, with a…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Dark purple. Ripe cherry, dark berry liqueur and candied licorice on the deeply perfumed nose, lifted by a smoky mineral quality. Broad, sweet and seamless on the palate, offering deeply concentrated black and blue fruit, floral pastille and spicecake flavors and a subtle touch of dark chocolate. Shows superb energy and focus on the finish,…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Georges Lignier has a delightful bouquet with crisp redcurrant, mulberry and cedar aromas that are well integrated with the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly candied entry, supple tannin but a rather simple, predictable finish that lacks the flair and opulence one seeks in this vineyard. Tasted…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Batailley has long been one of the hidden pleasures of this vintage. Now at 14 years of age I find no reason to alter that view. Here it has a pure bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a touch of kirsch, the latter a trait that I have not noticed before. The palate is…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Medium red-ruby. Somewhat medicinal aromas of licorice, violet, minerals and lead pencil. Supple and moderately ripe, with red- and blackcurrant flavors showing a restrained sweetness. A somewhat chunky Pauillac that finishes with rather tough tannins that spread out on the finish.

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…