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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a level up in terms of intensity, offering layers of black cherry and blueberry fruit; this could only come from this particular vineyard. Wonderful precision and quite floral. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, succulent tannins and a very saline finish. A very intense Bonnes-Mares, almost overwhelming toward…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is blessed with a deliriously beautiful bouquet with pure red berry fruit, crushed stone and pressed rose petals. Astonishing focus. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, vivacious red berry fruit laced with minerals and a touch of piquancy on the perfectly formed finish that you might quibble,…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(vinified with 50% whole clusters; just 17 hectoliters per hectare produced): Healthy bright, full red. Pungent aromas of dark raspberry, humid stone and crushed-rock calcaire. Offers compelling volume without heaviness, displaying superb density and depth to its flavors of dark raspberry, exotic spices and minerals. Conveys a rather saline, high-pH impression (probably around 3.7, according…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a very pure bouquet, with a beacon of red berry fruit, neatly integrated with the oak. There is a nobility here, though perhaps it is a little more understated than I would expect considering the vineyard. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, minerals and musky earth. Wonderfully silky, plush and fine-grained, with its atypical fat nicely leavened by smoky, crunchy minerality. I find this wonderfully rich Les Amoureuses gentler in the early going than the Bonnes-Mares but it may need just…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is showing more oak on the nose compared to Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside, although there is clearly sufficient fruit behind to support it: blackberry, blueberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black tea and a touch of iodine, then a…