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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is a burly, powerful wine that will need quite a bit of time to come into its own, although it may never be particularly refined. Today the tannins are clenched and imposing, especially for the wine’s medium-bodied frame. Bright red stone fruit, white pepper and floral notes are some of the signatures.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is similar to the bottle poured blind at the Southwold tasting just a few weeks earlier. It has a crisp red currant and cranberry bouquet laced with tobacco, cedar and chalk. The palate is well defined and beautifully balanced, delivering crisp acidity and fine tannin. This is unashamedly taut and linear, but…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru may well be the most perplexing offering from the domaine this year. Backward and reticent on the nose, this is very well-defined, but my word, you have to eke out the light sea cave and limestone scents with rigorous swirling of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and very…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Very fine mousse, with abundant bubbles. Medium straw color. Strong notes of yeast and butter on the nose, along with tangerine and Meyer lemon. Plump and supple on the palate, showing tropical flavors of fresh pineapple and papaya. Quite graceful in texture, finishing with subtle notes of mace and cinnamon. An impressive showing.

Vinous Table: Marino Ristorante, Hollywood, CA (Jun 2018)

The 1988 Krug makes for a fabulous start. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1988 remains bright and focused, with all of the energy of this great vintage very much on display. Time has naturally softened some of the contours and added a good bit of nuance, but the 1988 Krug remains a Champagne of…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

(note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already…