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Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

The 2002 Brut La Grande Année is marvelous. The 2002 is an understated Grande Année that caresses the palate with layers of effortless, weightless fruit. The mousse is exceptionally fine, which adds to the impression of total elegance. This is a relatively bright, floral Grande Année with plenty of aromatic lift, inner perfume and no…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(60% pint noir and 40% chardonnay; 71% of the fruit is from grand cru sites and rest from premier crus; disgorged February, 2011): Light gold. Ripe pear and honey on the explosively perfumed nose, with sexy floral and marzipan nuances expanding with air. Fat, full and palate-coating, boasting impressive power and thrust. Shows an intriguing…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1985 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that I have tasted several times from bottles I picked up cheaply some years ago. I was particularly effusive about the 1985 although, I feel that it has decayed a little since my last note in 2010. Soft red berry fruit, hedgerow, sage and mushrooms on the loose-knit nose,…

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2012 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is bright, pulsating with energy and finely chiseled to the core, but today it is the wine’s creaminess and center of fruit that come through most. There is considerable fruit density in the glass, but the 2012 is also dense and closed in on itself. Readers will have to be patient;…

2011 Brunello di Montalcino: Terroir Matters (Feb 2016)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is magnificent. Huge swaths of tannin coat the palate as the 2010 shows off its power, breadth and overall intensity. Plum, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, smoke, licorice and cloves are some of the many notes that hit the palate. The Riserva is dark, powerful and brooding. It…