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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Village was quite closed at first when I tasted it from barrel, opening gradually to show crushed strawberry and morello cherries and touches of pressed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with plump tannins on the entry, mulberry and wild strawberry fruit flavors, and a touch of black olive toward the saline finish….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru is a little stricter on the nose compared to the Champs-Canet, though it opens with scents of mirabelle, white flowers and just a hint of dried honey. The palate is very well balanced and now shows immense concentration. This is not shy retiring wallflower, but has real depth…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru is very different from the Les Boudots, featuring vibrant red rather than black fruit and fine delineation; the essence of Pinoté in a glass. There is something carefree about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Silky-smooth and Vosne-like…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is quite closed on the nose, offering discreet blackberry, raspberry and light violet aromas that you might mistake for a Vosne-Romanée. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. This is a juicy Clos de Vougeot, a little savory and quite peppery on the finish, which you might…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Le Pin has an attractive bouquet with scents of black cherries, truffle, orange rind and hints of pain d’épices developing. I appreciate the definition here, the sense of control, the terroir coming through as much as the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, a fine bead of acidity, spicier than…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; from a crop level of 34 hectoliters per hectare; pH 3.70; 13.5% alcohol; harvested on September 22 and 25) Deep ruby-red. Perfumed, expressive aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur and minerals lack the sheer decadent opulence of some recent vintages. Then wonderfully clean and precise, with flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by hints…