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Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1982 Ausone is a wine that I have tasted three or four times before, always a good but perhaps not great expression of the vintage, since it would be a good few years before Alain Vauthier could improve the winemaking. At 36 years of age it is showing quite wide bricking on the rim….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

The bottle in the blind flight showed rather autumnal aromas and an element of old wood on the nose; modest volume and sweetness; and some unabsorbed acidity on the back end. Second bottle: Full healthy red with a hint of amber. Cool, laid-back aromas of cherry, minerals and menthol. Dense with extract but extremely dry,…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

This is perhaps the best bottle of Krug’s 2002 Vintage I have tasted. Expansive and creamy on the palate, with lovely finesse and brightness, the 2002 is quite expressive today. I don’t see the depth or pedigree that might place this wine among the best examples of the year. Instead, the 2002 Vintage continues to…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Krug’s 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Bright yellow. Vibrant pear and melon aromas are complicated by suggestions of ginger, brioche and smoky minerals. Dry, smoky and precise, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors that gain weight with aeration. A dusty mineral quality adds focus and lift to the long, penetrating, floral finish. There’s a Burgundian thing going on here that’s…