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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark cherry, menthol, earth, leather and minerals; I might have guessed Nuits-Saint-Georges. Surprisingly supple and sweet in the mouth, offering considerable early appeal. Not especially complex but nicely full and satisfying. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and lingering suggestions of leather and saline minerality. This wine was vinified…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2004 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru from Rossignol-Trapet has one of the best aromatics from among 13 wines tasted from this infamous growing season. No greenness here, just delightful red cherry, crushed strawberry and light white peppery aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and decent if decayed red fruit. The slightly dry yet still…

Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin (Jun 2016)

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin captures the richness of the year in its pliant, open personality. Wonderfully dense and expressive, especially for a village-level wine, the 2005 is drinking beautifully today. Worn-in leather, spices, tobacco and dried dark cherries meld into the succulent, expressive finish. This is a terrific village-level offering from Rousseau.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Latour was mind-blowingly profound in two recent tastings for this report. Deep and sensual to the core, the 2005 is utterly captivating. All the elements are so seamlessly put together. Graphite, crème de cassis, licorice, dark spice and lavender infuse the 2005 with so much energy. More than anything else, though, the 2005…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Translucent straw-yellow. Mineral-accented orchard and pit fruits and a suggestion of chamomile on the nose. Densely packed but lithe in style, offering mineral-laced nectarine, pear and tangerine flavors that show fine definition and a spicy ginger nuance. The floral and mineral qualities carry through the incisive finish, which hangs on with strong tenacity.