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2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, floral- and spice-accented aromas of candied cherry, black raspberry and cola, with a subtle suggestion of vanilla in the background. Offers an array of lively red and dark fruit and floral pastille flavors that gain flesh and weight with aeration. Closer in style to the Mouline than the Landonne this year. Closes…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Opaque ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented aromas of black raspberry and boysenberry, with exotic Asian spice and incense notes building in the glass. Youthfully taut and wound up, offering bright red and dark berry liqueur flavors and cracked pepper and floral pastille qualities that gain power with air. Closes bright and pure, trailing intense flavors of red…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Saturated ruby. An impressively complex nose evokes blackberry, dark chocolate, violet and cigar tobacco, with a strong spicy note emerging with air. Offers sweet, deeply pitched dark fruit compote and floral pastille flavors that are given spine by juicy acidity. No way I’d guess from this wine’s concentration that it was an ’08. Finishes with…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(60% grenache, 39% syrah and 1% counoise): Vivid purple. Cherry and dark berries on the highly fragrant nose. Suave and expansive, with impressive depth to its ripe dark fruit flavors, which are braced by tangy minerality. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with impressive clarity, sappiness and length.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Opaque ruby. Deep-pitched black and blue fruit liqueur aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice and cola. Broad, sweet and fleshy, offering concentrated blackberry and boysenberry flavors enlivened by juicy acidity and a peppery spice nuance. Tightens up slowly on the youthfully tannic, focused finish, which clings with resonating spiciness and outstanding tenacity.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Gold-tinged color. Deep, maturing aromas of toffee, butterscotch, ginger and molasses. Fat and rich in the mouth, with excellent intensity; in the mature Bollinger style but far more successful than the bottling from the lower-acid 1989 vintage. Thick with extract, and palate-staining on the aftertaste. A main-course Champagne.