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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank; already fined): Bright yellow. Aromas of yellow peach and white plum, with a liqueur-like suggestion of mirabelle. Broad, rich and dry, showing a sexy fine-grained mouthfeel. This dense, classic village Puligny conveys an impression of laid-back energy and finishes with lovely lift and finesse.

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(bottled two weeks before my November visit; aged in 50% new oak for ten months): Bright yellow-gold. Scented, complex aromas of mirabelle, botanical herbs, ginger, crushed stone and spicy oak. Sappy, dry wine with lovely chewy depth to its soil-driven saline, spice and lemon flavors. Finishes with a youthful reserve and strong lingering spices.

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Dark, bright-rimmed purple. Powerful red and dark berry preserve and cherry cola scents are complemented by exotic spice, incense and floral oil notes. Sappy and densely packed, offering palate-staining black raspberry, cherry liqueur, violet pastille and spicecake flavors braced by a core of juicy acidity. Youthfully chewy tannins build steadily on a strikingly long, penetrating…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Brooding aromas of cassis, spice and woodsmoke, along with port-like notes of chocolate and damp earth. Thick, silky and a bit roasted in the mouth, with chocolate and game flavors. Still in a rather oxidative phase, as this wine often is in the year or two following the bottling. But has the acidity…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1975 Latour was served from magnum at the reception held at the château for 1,500 guests at Vinexpo. However, I was not the only one rather disappointed by the aromatics that feel leafy and very austere, perhaps despite the large format and provenance, the 1975 is dried out, like many Left Bank wines born…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Haut-Brion has a very attractive bouquet with blackberry, briary, raspberry and sous-bois aromas, just a hint of roasted chestnut in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a strong graphite note on the entry. Very harmonious with good acidity, this is classic Pessac-Léognan, although it does not possess the substance and grip of…