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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the ’86 Mouton…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cheval Blanc has another extravagant bouquet with ample red cherries, raspberry preserve, mulberry, fig and singed leather. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite dense and assertive, backward with a sinewy finish that just feels a little forced compared to some of the other wines in this flight. With time in the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Captivating scents of cassis, violet, minerals, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Extremely fine-grained but also very dense and chewy for young Cheval Blanc, showing great cabernet franc lift and perfume and a downright velvety texture. This deep, multilayered wine was a bit dominated by its brooding tannins and big structure when…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 56/44 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 3.8 pH; 84 IPT; 14.5% alcohol; a roughly 60% selection for the grand vin Deep ruby-purple. Brooding nose opens slowly with air to reveal concentrated, multifaceted aromas of cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and white pepper. Very rich and dense on entry, displaying concentrated flavors of black fruits,…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Bright ruby. Sexy aromas of red fruit preserves, potpourri and herbs, with a spicy topnote. Juicy and precise, offering sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and a touch of smoky minerality. Showing impressive finesse and a light touch for the vintage. Very elegant, with a strikingly long, floral-dominated finish and gentle tannins.

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Ruby-red. Red and dark berries on the fragrant, exotically perfumed nose. Ripe and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, displaying juicy raspberry and blackberry flavors that are given depth by a suggestion of candied licorice. Gains energy with air and finishes long, with excellent clarity and incisive spice notes.