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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a scintillating wine – always has been. Dark cherries and still that hint of bergamot on the nose that shimmers with youthful delight, perfectly in tune with the oak. Perhaps a little more mineralité than I recall. It oddly seems to tighten up with aeration instead of opening! The…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Blackcurrant, graphite and minerals on the nose. Sweet, fleshy and dense, with an impeccable sugar/acid balance. Strong mineral tones and firm acids. Finishes long and gripping, with excellent tannic spine and lift. A bit like the 2002 Les Forts de Latour but turned up a notch or two. But not quite as perfumed as…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 2002 Latour is a wine that has impressed ever since I first tasted it from barrel and subsequently both in sighted and blind conditions. It offers disarming black fruit laced with tobacco and graphite on the nose, this bottle showing less of the Christmas cake that I remarked in previous bottles. Firm in structure,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Latour is more backward on the nose, quite floral with rose petal scents infusing the red and black fruit, a marine element that emerges with time in the glass. I could not find any of the Christmas cake aromas that I observed on previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, grippy…

Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – New Releases (Jul 2016)

One of the most pleasant surprises in this tasting, the 2002 Latour is just beginning to show the full breadth of its aromatic complexity, but it is also has more than enough depth to drink well for several decades. Tar, graphite, incense and smoke open up in the glass in a Latour that leans towards…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2003 Cos d’Estournel revels in a vintage that shone in Saint-Estèphe. In some ways it is a prototype of the 2009 however, the 2003 feels more natural, more a product of the growing season than a premeditated crowd-pleaser like the 2009. It has that almost gregarious bouquet with plush raspberry ripple, vanilla pod, crème…