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2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Inky, glass-staining ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes dark fruit liqueur, smoky Indian spices, potpourri and cracked pepper. Deep but lively, offering palate-coating blueberry and cherry-cola flavors and a sexy note of candied violet. This wine opens up dramatically with a little air and shows a very suave blend of power and finesse. An energizing…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2011 Sassicaia is soft, round and enveloping. The silky, textured style is a bit out of character for a wine that is usually a bit firmer and more energetic. Layers of expressive dark red fruit build to the open, caressing finish. There are no hard edges here. The 2011 has always come across as…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Full saturated ruby. Very pure, floral aromas of red cherry, blackberry, cassis, minerals and minty herbs. Juicy, sweetly spicy and multilayered, with strong but well-integrated acidity giving the wine lovely early balance and intensifying its dark fruit flavors. Broadens out impressively on the back half without losing its shape. This silky, very graceful Sassicaia might…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a backward and rather surly bouquet at first, before gradually opening with blackberry, wild hedgerow, tobacco and subtle seaweed aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. It does not possess the complexity or nuance of the 2010 Grand Puy Lacoste tasted alongside and it seems more forward….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a stunning bouquet with pixelated black fruit, crushed stone and graphite aromas that soar from the glass. This is just amazingly focused. The palate is medium-bodied with concentrated black fruit curiously tinged with cough candy, which here I find just a bit out of place. The acidity is extremely well judged…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Classic Pauillac aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice lifted by a violet topnote. Intensely flavored and sharply delineated, with terrific fruit intensity to support its very bright acidity. This firmly structured, gripping wine is a bit dominated by its serious tannic spine today, but the dark berry fruit…